HISTORICAL TOUR OF THE PAPHOS COASTLINE This is a driving guide for tourists stretching from Ricos Beach in the East along to Agious Georgios in the west taking in historical and modern sites of interest. It can be stretched over a day or two days depending on how long you take to view each site. Directions DRIVE OUT OF PAPHOS TAKE THE DUAL CARRIAGEWAY EAST TOWARDS THE AIRPORT UNTIL YOU REACH THE ROUNDABOUT WHICH ONLY TURNS LEFT. GO AROUND IT AND BACK THE WAY YOU CAME. TAKE THE FIRST TURN ON THE LEFT (150kms) FOLLOW IT DOWN TO THE BEACH AND TURN RIGHT. YOU ARE NOW AT THE EASTERN END OF GEROSKIPOU BEACH SHOWING WHAT THE PAPHOS COASTLINE LOOKED LIKE ONLY FORTY YEARS AGO. MOVING ALONG TO RICCOS BEACH SHOWING A TYPICAL CYPRIOT STYLE OF FAMILY BEACH.
Short history of Cyprus Since the beginning of modern times Cyprus has always been occupied by successive invading nations. Assyria, Egypt, Persia, Egypt, Roman, Byzantine, Arabia, British (Richard 1) who sold it to the Lusignon Dynasty (French), Venetian, Ottoman (Turkey), Britain, and finally in 1960 Cyprus was declared an Independent Country from Great Britain. In 1974 Turkey invaded Cyprus, but were stopped by the United Nations and held back to the north of the Island although the facts are much more complicated than that. This situation remains today with various crossing points to the TRNC (Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus). The name Cyprus is derived from Kypro, being the Latin name for Copper which was mined here for many years by the Romans. Ricco’s Beach Bar The bar started in 1975 with a Coca Cola trailer, run by Andreas Xenofontos (Ricco) a disabled war veteran who could no longer work on the family farm. He built the business up, providing tables, chairs, sunshades, and over the years constructed buildings, toilet facilities, a kitchen etc. all without planning permission which is normal over here. . The Municipality has dismantled the whole thing twice in the last twelve years but Ricco has always rebuilt it to an even better standard. The last time the authorities tried to bulldoze it down, there was a huge protest and a human barrier stood in front of the bulldozer until the authorities backed down.
With the development of Gerouskipou beach, there were new Beach Bars constructed and Ricco was given one as a ‘reward’. The coastline is natural and very popular as a Cypriot meeting place for family barbecues and get-togethers. Recently there have been breakwaters installed to make the swimming areas safer, there are several lifeguard stations situated along the length of the beach. The Luna Amusement Park This was constructed some thirty five years ago before the hotel development, for children’s (and adults) entertainment and has been updated in 2018. It is still popular today. CARRYING ON PAST ALL THE MODERN HOTELS TO THE MUNICIPAL BEACHES ON POSEIDONOS AVENUE (signposted). INTO THE TOURIST AREA AND THE HARBOUR. PARK IN THE FREE CAR PARK. The Harbour Paphos castle or fort was originally built in Byzantine times (330AD to 1453AD) to protect the harbour from invasion by the Ottoman (Turkish) Empire. After being destroyed by an earthquake in 1220, it was rebuilt by the Lusignans, the ruling French Dynasty. It was destroyed again by the invading Venetian Army, who rebuilt it in the same style in 1570. The Ottoman Empire gained control of Cyprus, in 1573 and the fort was dismantled and once again rebuilt, extended and strengthened to what it is today. It has been used for various purposes over the years, a defence castle, prison cells and much later in the 20th century the British used to store salt in it. In 1935 it was designated an Ancient Monument. From the fort, there is a coastal pathway running westward that takes you past the lighthouse (200mtres) which was constructed in 1888 by the British, to guide shipping into Paphos Harbour. The coastal path has been in construction for the last ten years and will eventually run through to the proposed Marina and Coral Bay, some 15 Kms. Moving on to the world famous UNESCO protected Paphos Mosaics, (entrance in car park) these pre-date the castle by at least 300 years being the remains of a huge Roman Villa called ‘The House of Dionysos’ and the ancillary buildings that were associated with it. The mosaics were discovered by accident in 1962 when the land was being ploughed up, and the whole site was renovated by a Polish Archaeological team. They are considered to be among the best examples of Roman remains in the world. If you decide to view the mosaics you will need time, water and a hat because it is a large area to cover in the Cyprus sunshine. DRIVE FROM THE HARBOUR CAR PARK TOWARDS THE TOWN, AFTER ABOUT 200Mtrs TURN RIGHT TO: St. Paul’s Pillar Church and the ruins of the Basillica. In 45AD St Paul and St Barnabus came to Cyprus to try and convert the Roman Proconsol Sergius Paulus to Christianity. They were successful in this making Cyprus the first Christian Country in the world. During the conversion, which was not easy, Paul was tied to one of the pillars and received 39 lashes for his trouble. The actual pillar is on view (maybe it is or maybe it isn’t). The magnificent Basillica was constructed at the beginning of the 4th century AD and survived until the Arab invasion of 653 AD at which time it was destroyed. The multi faith present church building was constructed in 1500 AD using stones from the ruins of the Basillica and it is basically the same as it was then. BACK TO THE ROAD FROM THE HARBOUR, TURN RIGHT.THEN AT THE LARGE ROUNDABOUT, TURN FIRST LEFT INTO TOMBS OF THE KINGS ROAD. DRIVING ALONG THE TOMBS OF KINGS ROAD TO THE ROUNDABOUT THEN TURN LEFT INTO THE TOMBS OF THE KINGS. Tombs of the Kings Dating back to the 4th century BC the Tombs of the Kings are probably the tombs of many important Aristocrats and some of the very wealthy merchants who dealt with far eastern dealers in fabrics and goods which were then sold on to Europe and beyond. There are many grand examples of lavish tombs and tributes to great men of their time. But unfortunately none of them were Kings. If you decide to view the Tombs of the Kings make sure you have time, water and a hat as a safeguard against the Cyprus sunshine. NEXT STOP, DIMMA BEACH THE DEMETREUS DEO SHIPWRECK. CARRY ON TOWARDS CORAL BAY, 1 Km PAST ALICELAND RESTAURANT, (on left) TAKE NEXT LEFT DOWN TO THE COAST WHERE THERE IS A SMALL CAR PARK. The Demetreus Deo is a merchant ship which ran aground on 23rd March 1998 in a heavy storm. She was sailing from Greece to Syria carrying a cargo of timber planks, although you can plainly see that Syria was the last place she was headed for, more like ‘Aliceland restaurant’. There was a crew of eight, two Pakistanis, two Syrians and four Greeks all of whom were lifted off by a British Forces helicopter from RAF Akritiri. The Greek captain and Pakistani first officer were found to have forged Lebanese Certificates of competence and had no qualifications to be in charge of a ship (Two planks too many maybe). The cargo and anything worth saving were removed or stolen depending who you listen to. There she stands to this day stuck fast on an outcrop of rock. ‘Experts’ say that eventually she will rust so badly that she will topple over and lie on her side until she finally rusts away. BACK TO THE MAIN ROAD, CARRYING ON TO ST. GEORGES, AT THE TRAFFIC LIGHTS BY THE ANGELICA RESTAURANT(on right), TURN LEFT, THE HOTEL IS FACING YOU, GO LEFT PAST THE HOTEL, THERE IS A CHAPEL ON THE RIGHT, JUST PAST THAT IS A CAR PARK WITH PEDESTRIAN ACCESS DOWN TO THE COAST . The Agious Georgiou (Saint George) is a small caique (boat), housed in a museum on the coast in Chlorakas. In the 1955 EOKA uprising the Agious Georgiou was being used to illegally transport explosives, arms and ammunition to Cyprus from Greece. Unaware that they were being tracked by the British Navy, the boat attempted to land in Chlorakas, only to be met by the British Army who arrested the crew and also captured the EOKA members waiting for it. The boat was impounded by the British, and handed back to the Cypriots in 1960 after independence. The area is called St George after the boat. There is a larger than life statue of General George Grivas who was a leading member of EOKA and a memorial to the EOKA movement on the beach near the museum. EOKA stands for Ethniki Organosis Kypriakou Agonos. In English it means - National Organisation of Cypriot Struggle. Incidentally the English ‘St George’ patron saint of England is the same as the one in Cyprus. He never went to England but he is very big in this part of the world. BACK TO THE MAIN ROAD CARRY ON TOWARDS CORAL BAY, AS YOU DROP DOWN INTO BANANA BAY, YOU WILL SEE THE PROPOSED SITE OF THE NEW PAPHOS MARINA, AFTER YEARS OF NEGOTIATIONS THE MARINA IS AT LAST BEING BUILT IN THE BAY(OR NOT AT TIME OF WRITING) THEN TURN LEFT AT THE ROUNDABOUT INTO CORAL BAY . Coral Bay This is the purpose built tourist resort for the Paphos district. Constructed in the 1980’s it is very popular with tourists but it has very few traditional old buildings. It has two beaches, the commercialised Coral Bay itself and the more natural Corallia Bay. You take your choice which one you use. BACK UP THE CORAL BAY STRIP TO THE ROUNDABOUT AGAIN TURN FIRST LEFT YOU WILL PASS PAPHOS ZOO,(5kms on RHS) WELL WORTH A VISIT. BACK TO MAIN ROAD AND AFTER ANOTHER 4 Kms YOU WILL COME TO AGIOUS GEORGIOS Agious georgios This small fishing port is most famous for the Roman ruins and mosaics on the left as you drive in on the left, opposite the church. They were discovered in 1952 and can be viewed for a small admission charge. The area around the church provides a spectacular viewing platform, overlooking the small fishing harbour. The road snakes on down into the harbour area where there is a small bathing beach. BACK ALONG THE MAIN ROAD TO CORAL BAY, AFTER 3 Kms TURN RIGHT AT A LARGE WHITE COMPOSTER CONTAINER DOWN TO THE COAST ROAD -TURN LEFT CARRY ON UNTIL YOU SEE SIGN ON THE RIGHT FOR ONIRO RESTAURANT. TURN RIGHT DOWN TO THE RESTAURANT YOU CAN PARK IN THEIR CAR PARK AND WALK TO THE COAST AND YOU WILL FIND THE WRECK OF THE EDRO 3. Edro 3 This merchant ship was sailing from Limassol to Rhodes carrying plasterboard. She set sail from Limassol on the 7th December 2011 in rough seas. By the time she reached Paphos, the sea was gale force 10 and the Captain decided to return to Limassol. However while negotiating the turn the steering was damaged and the ship was adrift! She finally came aground at 6 am on the 8th in the very up market Sea - Caves residential area of Pegia. The crew was airlifted off, leaving the Captain and chief engineer to protect the ship from salvage claims. Over the next three months the cargo, fuel and batteries were removed to prevent pollution and the ship was patched up. She was supposed to be re-floated when the high seas came the following winter. She sits there still. There are excellent restaurants in the area with spectacular sea-cave views and extensive menus an excellent end to your trip. Have a good one!
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